Q: How do you pronounce the word "BAUEDA" and what the heck it means?
A: BA(as in 'BAnana')-U(pronounced 'who')-E(as in 'Element')-DA(as in 'honDA'), Baueda rhymes with cheddar and leather (and Rat and Parrot sometimes but that's another story...)
It is most likely an acronym for Bold And Utterly Embittered Dumb Artist.

Q: Should the plain cast models be washed before painting to prevent paint flaking off?
A: Yes! Absolutely, all resin models MUST be washed thoroughly with hot water and a strong detergent first, to clean off all traces of mold release agent. To get the best results from washing your model components I'd suggest using a strong household cleaner diluted in water. I use a kitchen floor cleaner. The models should then be given a scrub with an old toothbrush or something similar. A toothbrush is useful as the bristles are fine enough to fit into small gaps but firm enough to actually do something. I usually leave the components to soak for a little while before using the toothbrush. When you are done scrubbing the whole surface remove the models from the cleaning mixture, rinse thoroughly and allow them to dry well. The reason for doing this is to make sure all traces of mould release fluids are removed. Once they are thoroughly dry give them a preparation coating with a good quality primer, whatever you use for your figures should do. I use a car body primer as it has a stronger grip than most model primers. Give it a very light coat first and make sure you follow all the spray can directions for best results. Let it dry and repeat the application. On our "ready to paint" models we do three coats, first a plastic primer to ensure the best possible grip, then two more passes with a high quality grey primer to ensure all the surface is evenly coated with a good base for any color. Make sure to let each primer coat dry overnight and you're ready to paint the models with whatever paint you want, even watercolors! If you are going to handle them a lot you may also consider a protective varnish over the paintjob, I don't like this much myself, but if you have to use one I'd recommend a tough clear spray followed by a coat of Humbrol matt to eliminate the shine.
For a good guide on how to work with resin models look at Dean Winson' one:
http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/Downloads/Product/PDF/R/resintips.pdf
Everything in there applies to our models too, except that our resin is much, much tougher, and it is not brittle at all!

Q: I ordered a single bag of figures and got charged 12.50 Euro for shipping! What's up with your shipping costs ?
A: We use a FLAT shipping and handling fee on ANY order of EURO€ 12.50 for ANY size ANY order ANYWHERE. This means that the minimum AND the maximum shipping you'll be always charged on ANY order is EURO€ 12.50 regardless the size of the order itself.Take advantage of this by ganging up with some friends and make a single joint order to minimize shipping costs!!


Q: Why no protective varnish?
A: We use the best acrylic paints available on the market over a triple coat of primer and no protective glaze should be required for normal use. If you plan to subject the models to a particularly heavy abuse however we strongly suggest to coat them with any of the protective varnishes products widely available on the market.

Q: Would you, or have you considered a (insert your favorite item here)?
A: Maybe, or maybe not, but don't be shy, just ask! BAUEDA focus on filling up the gap between what's already available and what wargamers wants, so check out the wishlist, and if is not there feel free to suggest us a new subject, come see us on Facebook and just click "like"!
If it's within our possibilities we will certainly consider it for production!

Q: Tell me, are your items less fragile than manufacturer X items? If so, why?
A: All BAUEDA casts are made with very high quality Polyurethane Resin, this is a very expensive last generation material, it takes very high detail and the casts are much less brittle than those made of low grade Polyurethanes or even worst polyester resin (the smelly stuff) which are much cheaper resins used by most manufacturers. None of the items in production can be described as fragile at all, they won't even chip if you let them fall on a concrete floor (we tried that), and never mind how hard you try you can't brake most 15mm scenic base in two with your bare hands for example (unless you are Bruce Lee that is ;) The casts are quite tough and won't brake accidentally in normal tabletop wargame use, including dropping it from the table under a box of lead figures. I make no guarantee in regard to children or pets gnawing at them though...!
If you are in any doubt send us a self-addressed envelope and I'll be happy to send you a sample to chew on!

Q: Why new items are not released in any particular order?
A: Mainly because of the process required in the making of the masters and the production molds. Some item is much more complex than others, some just happens to fit in a moment of spare time that wasn't planned. Sometimes the master is ready but I have to wait until others are available because it's too small to make a whole mold on it's own. Anyway new items are released regularly, if the one you are waiting for didn't come up this time it will probably be next! There is also a certain degree of flexibility involved, so if you badly need something in particular let me know and I'll try to give it priority if possible.

Q: Why some small items cost as much as bigger ones?
A: This is because it is sometimes harder to produce a small item: not only it often takes a more complex mould to make but in order to force the resin in all the little details it needs a system of feeding and runners vents, so that there is a lot of wasted resin in the casting process. In some cases it may actually take more resin to cast a small item than a much larger one. Since we use a very high quality polyurethane resin which is very expensive this is reflected in the item cost. Also the more detail and undercuts there are in a model the less a mold will last and the harder it is to get it right. The final price is a result of the cost of the time spent making the master, the cost of the master molds, the cost of the regular replacement of production molds and the cost to actually produce the piece.

Q: Any particular reason why one (or more) of the parts are (insert random color here)? Does that makes any difference?
A: No, there isn't any particular reason for it really... :) Sometimes we just experiment with different pigments, we add dyes to some of the casts for purely aesthetic reasons, trying to find a color that is simple enough to achieve with some consistency and makes the details in the models more visible, that's all. The pigments are especially designed for the kind of Polyurethane we are using and are guaranteed not to affect the characteristics of the material in any other way apart changing the resin color. They will not bleed or stain since they are permanently chemically bonded within the resin as it cures.
As with the undyed resin, all parts should be washed thoroughly to remove the traces of release agent left on them by the casting process and then primed before painting. The color will not affect any of these processes in any way.